How to tell real military surplus from reproductions.

Read the contract tag first

Every piece of genuine US issue gear, from a field jacket to a canteen cover, was manufactured under a DLA or DSCP contract. The label or stencil includes a contract number (DLA100-XX-D-XXXX), a NSN (National Stock Number), and the contractor name. Compare the contract number to the era. A jacket claiming to be Vietnam issue with a 2008 contract number is, at best, a later production run, at worst, a reproduction with a faked tag.

Fabric weight and feel

Reproductions almost always cut corners on fabric weight. A genuine M65 field jacket shell is 6.5 oz NYCO sateen, heavier, denser, and more rigid than what most replicas use. The interior cotton liner has a slight slubby texture. If the fabric feels light, slick, or "shiny," be skeptical.

Stitching and thread color

US military uniforms use specific stitch counts per inch and thread that matches the shade exactly. Repros often use a lighter, brighter thread. Examine seam allowances inside out, government work is over built. Loose threads, crooked topstitching, or skipped bartacks are red flags.

Hardware and metal

Zippers are usually marked (TALON, IDEAL, YKK contract). Buttons on dress uniforms are marked on the back. Buckles, snaps, and grommets on field gear should show "US" or a manufacturer mark. Plain or "no mark" hardware is almost always reproduction.

When in doubt, bring it in

The fastest way to settle the question is to put the piece on the counter at Bossert's. Decades of catalog knowledge in one place, usually under 60 seconds to identify era, contract, and authenticity.